The Northwest —
County Donegal

Photo: Visitors enjoy paddle-boating at the Dunlewy Centre, with a glimpse of Mount Errigal in the background; Friary at Rossnowlagh; Gardens at Glenveagh National Park; Colmcille Heritage Centre overlooking Lough Gartan; part of stone walls at Grianán an Aileach

Donegal is a county of contrasts — from the wide expanses of award-winning beaches like Rossnowlagh and Bundoran to the narrow winding roads leading into the rock-strewn "Gaeltacht" or Gaelic-speaking areas. Here you'll encounter remote towns such as Falcarragh (Fal Carragh), Gortahork (Gorta Choirce), and Gweedore (Gaoth Dobhair) — names whose meanings in the Irish language describe either the landscape or local historical events. One of the county's most majestically beautiful places is Glencolumbkille, the 6th century stomping ground of St. Columba. "Gleann Cholm Cille" in the Irish language means "St. Columba's Valley" or "The Glen of St. Columba's Church."

In addition, County Donegal presents a diverse collection of cliffs and mountains, resorts and fishing ports, old abbeys and pilgrim sites, crafts centers and thatched cottages. This is also the hub of great traditional music and song — the home of Enya, Clannad, and Daniel O'Donnell.

Here are some of the sightseeing highlights of County Donegal:

Fr. McDyer's Folk Village Museum, Glencolumbkille (tel. 074-973-0017), is nestled in the heart of a remote and peaceful valley, where St. Columba roamed in the 6th century to spread Christianity before he left for Iona in Scotland. Here, in the late 1960's, another man of God (Fr. James McDyer) inspired the development of a folk village or "living history" museum. Designed, assembled, and maintained by the people of Glencolumbkille, this outdoor museum seeks to re-create life over the past 300 years. The complex includes a cluster of cottages or "clachan," built and thatched in the traditional Donegal style — tied down to withstand the prevailing winds off the Atlantic. Each cottage represents a different era and way of life — 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries, and is furnished with the tools, implements, and utensils appropriate to that period. Other buildings include a 19th century school, a shebeen (pub), craft shop, tea house, and bakery. The grounds, set into a hillside overlooking the sea below, feature an herb garden and a nature walk. Open Easter to end-September, Monday-Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday noon to 6 p.m.; and October Monday-Friday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Web site: www.glenfolkvillage.com

Tí Linn – The Slieve League Cultural Centre, Teelin, Co. Donegal, tel. 074-973-9077, is a hub of  information on the archaeology and history of Slieve League (Sliabh Liag), considered the highest sea cliffs in Europe.  The centre also arranges guided hill walks, and heritage/archaeological tours, as well as a shuttle van service to the cliffs. A gourmet coffee café and shop are also on the premises. Open March – October, 10:30 a.m. to 5 :30 p.m. Web site: www.sliabhleague.com

Grianán an Aileach, on the main Letterkenny-Derry Road, is one of Ireland's greatest circular ring forts, with a diameter of 77 feet and walls that are 17 feet high and 13 feet thick. Sitting 750 feet above sea level, this mighty stone fort takes its name from the Irish language, "Grianán Ailigh," meaning "The stone fort of the sun." Archaeologists say that the fort itself dates from 500 BC or earlier, but the circular ramparts may go back as far back as 5,000 years ago. Considering its commanding position, it probably began as a pagan temple, but from the 5th century to the 12th century, it was the royal residence of the Ulster chieftains, the O'Neills. Although greatly ravaged in medieval times, it was partly restored in the 1870's, and is still very impressive. Open daily. Web site: www.stonepages.com/ireland/grianan.html

Ionad Cois Locha — The Lakeside Centre, Dunlewy (tel. 074-953-1699), is an authentic two-story 19th century farming home in the heart of the Donegal Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking district). Originally owned by a local weaver named Manus Ferry, it has been restored and converted into a small walk-around museum, furnished with local memorabilia including a vintage loom and kitchen with cupboard bed and a hob for grilling over the fire. Old fashioned Irish story-telling is part of the guided house tour. The grounds include herb and vegetable gardens, and a selection of farmyard animals. You can also watch sheep being sheared, take a boat ride on Dunlewy Lake, or rent paddleboats. It's a great oasis for the whole family deep in the hills of Donegal. Open mid-March through October, Monday to Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Web site: www.dunleweycentre.com

Glenveagh National Park, Churchill, Letterkenny (tel. 074-913-7090), is one of Ireland's finest national parks — 24,000 acres of gardens, moorlands, lakes, woods, and mountains including the two highest mountains in Donegal — Errigal and Slieve Snacht, and a Gothic-style granite castle dating back to 1870. A tour starts at the visitor center with a 25-minute audio-visual that presents background on the castle and estate. Mini-buses then take you to the castle and gardens. Guided tours of the castle are conducted every 20 minutes and last about 45 minutes. Save time to explore the gardens which have a rich variety of exotic and rare plants and wildlife including the largest red deer herd in Ireland. Open daily mid-March to early November, from 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Web site: www.heritageireland.ie

Glebe House & Gallery, Churchill, Letterkenny (tel. 074-913-7071) — is the art hub of Donegal, donated to the people of Ireland by English artist (and now honorary Irish citizen) Derek Hill who lived and painted in this area. The collection includes more than 300 works by leading 20th century artists such as Picasso, Bonnard, Kokoschka, and Jack Yeats, plus Donegal folk art, Japanese and Islamic art, papers and textiles by William Morris, and paintings by Derek Hill himself Open mid-May-September, Saturday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Web site: www.heritageireland.ie

Colmcille Heritage Centre, Churchill, Letterkenny (tel. 074-913-7306), tells the story of the life and times of Donegal's patron saint, St. Colmcille (521-597). Born in Gartan, he first spent time spreading Christianity in the area around Glencolumbkille and then set up at least three more foundations in Ireland — before bringing Christianity to Scotland, becoming known there as St. Columba of Iona. Walk-around exhibits include artistically designed banners, stained glass, illustrated panels, artifacts, and wax models in authentic clothing. There is also a step-by-step explanation of how ancient manuscripts were produced by the monks. The centre enjoys a delightful location overlooking Lough Gartan. Open May-September, Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m. -6:30 p.m., Sunday 1 - 6:30 p.m.

Franciscan Friary, Rossnowlagh (tel. 071-985-1342), is a long-established religious oasis, sitting on a hilltop overlooking a wide expanse of beach. The sections of the complex open to the public include a church, shop, extensive gardens sign-posted walking trails, prayer paths, and a viewing point overlooking the beach. In addition, the friary houses the Donegal History Society Museum, containing a variety of local history items, photographs, and memorabilia. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Web site: www.franciscans.ie

Ardara Heritage Centre, Main Street, Ardara (tel. 074-954-1704), is a small museum that tells the story of tweed from the sheep to the wool and eventually into woven cloth. It consists of a series of walk-around exhibits, old photographs, displays, and models of equipment used in the process. In addition, a weaver is usually on duty to answer questions and demonstrate how to work a loom. Open February-December, daily 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. or later.

Lough Derg Journey, Main Street, Pettigo (tel. 071-986-1550), is a heritage center positioned five miles south of the famous island of pilgrimage and fasting known as "St. Patrick's Purgatory" in Lough Derg. Every year thousands of people come to do penance and spend time on the island, reliving the 5th century example of St. Patrick. This center enables visitors to learn all about the famous pilgrimage - and to experience the sights and sounds - without having to go through all the rigors. A walk-around tour of the "Journey" includes quotes on the meaning of penance, with appropriate music, bells, voices, and poetry. Exhibits include a penitential bed, cave, desert garden, and a display of Lough Derg "wine" - salt, pepper, and hot water. Open Monday-Saturday, March-September, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and on Sunday (March-April) 2-5 p.m. and (May-September) noon to 5 p.m. Web site: www.loughderg.org

"Inishowen 100" — this is one of Ireland's most scenic drives — a 100-mile circular route around the Inishowen Peninsula at the top of Donegal. Very few people ever get this far, but those who do make the journey are well rewarded. Bounded on three sides by water, Inishowen is almost triangular in shape, between Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle and facing the Atlantic. With rich coastal scenery plus a fine collection of ancient forts and monuments, traditional craft centers, and a dozen friendly towns, many people consider Inishowen to be a miniature Donegal or even a miniature Ireland. Scenic highlights include the Gap of Mamore, a scenic roadway that rises to a height of 800 feet above sea level before following a spiraling corkscrew descent with panoramic views of the entire northern coastline; Malin Head, Ireland's most northerly point; and Fort Dunree (tel. 074-936-1817, a magnificent viewing outpost. More info on the Inishowen 100: 074-936-2600. Web site: www.dunree.pro.ie

Greencastle-Magilligan Ferry on Lough Foyle: This service, introduced in 2002, provides a direct link between Greencastle on the Inishowen Peninsula of Co. Donegal, and Magilligan, northwest of Coleraine, Northern Ireland. The ferries run throughout the day, from approximately 7:20 a.m. on weekdays and 9 a.m. on weekends until 7:50 p.m. or later, depending on time of year. It's a continuous shuttle drive-on/drive-off service; no reservations are needed; crossing time is about 15 minutes. This vessel joins almost a half-dozen other such ferries that save time and mileage for motorists touring Ireland. Information: Greencastle-Magilligan Ferry, operated by Lough Foyle Ferry Co. Ltd., The Pier, Greencastle, Co. Donegal; tel. 074-938-1901. Web site: www.loughfoyleferry.com.

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