The North —
Great Food & Drink
Photos (counterclockwise): Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast; The Linenhall Bar, Derry City; Skandia Restaurant, Belfast; Deane's Restaurant, Belfast.
Like the rest of Ireland, Ulster has great food and drink. The area is
particularly known for its variety of breads — soda bread, wheaten bread,
potato bread, and apple soda and currant bread, as well as all sorts of
scones to spread with cream and Mourne honey.
Other local Northern Ireland specialties range from Armagh apples to Lough Neagh eels. "Champ" is a combination of potatoes mashed with milk and chopped spring onions. "Dulse" is edible seaweed. Northern Ireland's signature drink, of course, is Old Bushmills Whiskey.
There are many great restaurants, cafes, and pubs to try
while traveling around Northern Ireland. Here is a sampling to whet your
appetite:
Restaurants
Cafes
Pubs
Restaurants
Bushmills Inn, 25 Main St., Bushmills, Co. Antrim (tel. 028-2073-2339).
Dating back to the 17th-century, this inn is a popular spot for a snack or
full meal, within walking distance of the famous distillery. Relax amid an
old world decor of open fireplaces, gas lamps, and antiques. The bar food
ranges from creative salads to hearty soups and sandwiches, while the main
dining room uses recipes featuring Bushmills whiskies.
Cayenne, 7 Lesley House, Shaftsbury Square, Belfast (tel.
028-9033-1532). For a big splurge, head to this Michelin-starred restaurant. The black-and-white decor is austere, but the menu is a rich blend of classic French recipes enhanced by healthy and California influence. Specialties include ballotine of salmon and lobster with sun-dried tomato sauce; pigeon and wild mushrooms; and monkfish with soy glaze and coriander cream. Open for lunch on weekdays and dinner every night except Sunday.
Deanes, 38 Howard Street, Belfast (tel. 028-9056-0000), located opposite
City Hall, is two restaurants in one — a pricey 40-seat dining room
upstairs and a more affordable brasserie on ground level. Both enjoy the
talents of the same chef, Michael Deane, a Michelin-star award winner. The
décor is ornate in Baroque style but the food is simply delicious — a
fusion of Irish and international cooking, with dishes such as Thai spiced
salmon, ravioli of lobster, roast cod with ratatouille, or lamb with roast
fennel and roquefort dressing. Open for lunch and dinner daily in the
brasserie and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner in the main dining room.
Londonderry Arms, 20 Harbour Rd., Carnlough, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-2888-5255). Dating back to 1848 and once in the hands of Winston
Churchill via inheritance, this historic ivy-clad inn overlooks the harbor,
at the foot of one of the Glens of Antrim. Bar food ranges from soups and
sandwiches to a ploughman's platter of local cheeses, while full meals
focus on traditional dishes such as roast chicken and bacon, or rib of beef
with horseradish sauce.
Mellon Country Inn, 134 Beltany Rd., Omagh, Co. Tyrone (tel.
028-8166-1224), is a popular stop near the Ulster-American Folk Park. House specialty is
Tyrone black steak, a locally bred hormone-free beef. Other choices range from burgers,
soups, and salads to lobster newburg and sole bonne femme. Open daily for lunch and
dinner.
Nick's Warehouse, 35 Hill St., Belfast (tel. 028-9043-9690) is a former
warehouse transformed into a popular wine bar-cum-restaurant with brick
walls, open kitchen, and wrought iron culinary sculptures. It offers trendy and tasty
cuisine, such as curly kale soup, hot-and-sour beef, lamb chops with honey and ginger, or
mixed nut bake. It is situated near St. Anne's Cathedral. Closed Sunday.
Cafes
Café Equinox, 32 Howard Street, Belfast (tel. 028-9023-0089), is a small
eatery at the back of a household gift shop. The menu offers creative
sandwiches, pastas, and salads, as well as pastries, milkshakes, fresh
baked scones and six different kinds of farmhouse apple juice from local
sources. Closed Sunday.
Le Bistro, Erneside Shopping Centre, Enniskillen (tel. 028-6632-6954), is a busy self-service café overlooking Lough Erne. Soups, salads, sandwiches of all kinds are served fresh daily. Closed Sunday.
Many of Northern Ireland's attractions also offer cafes or tea rooms as
part of their facilities, so you don't have to interrupt your sightseeing
to enjoy a snack or quick meal. Here are some of the best:
Belleek Pottery, Main St., Belleek, Co. Fermanagh (tel. 028-6665-8501)
Carrickfergus Castle, Antrim St., Carrickfergus, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-8335-1273)
Giant's Causeway Visitor Centre, Giant's Causeway, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-2073-1159)
Old Bushmills Distillery, Main St., Bushmills, Co. Antrim (tel.
028-2073-1521)
St. Patrick's Trian, 40 English St., Armagh (tel. 028-3752-1801)
Ulster Museum Café, Stranmillis Rd., Belfast (tel. 028-9038-3000)
Waterfront Hall, Lanyon Place, Belfast (tel. 028-9033-4455)
Pubs
The Beaten Docket, 48-52 Great Victoria St., Belfast (tel.
028-9024-2986), is one of Belfast's newest pubs, opened in 1985. With a bright brick
exterior and glass dome, it presents a modern contrast to its classic Victorian neighbor
next door, the Crown Liquor Saloon (see below). Step inside and see its attractive
mahogany bar with solid brass rail and elephant heads, not to mention beveled mirrors,
stained glass panels, and a traditional
snug. "Real ale" is a specialty here.
Blakes of the Hollow, 6 Church St., Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh (tel.
028-6632-2143). A landmark in the center of Enniskillen, this pub dates
back to the 1880's. It has a lovely Victorian decor with a long
marble-topped bar, pinewood snugs, and lots of memorabilia.
Crown Liquor Saloon, 44 Great Victoria St., Belfast (tel. 028-9024-9476),
is the veritable benchmark of Belfast's Victorian pubs, built in 1885.
Although it functions as a full-time pub, it is maintained by the National
Trust and revered with a museum-like awe by its regular patrons and
visitors from near and far. Step inside and sit in one of the 10 authentic
carved oak snugs on the right, each with its own bell and doors topped by
lions or griffons; or take a place along the long bar with inlaid colored
glass and marble trim. Savor your favorite beverage amid a decor of
richly colored tiles, stained and smoked glass, gas lights, beveled
mirrors, wooden arches, and red-and-yellow tin ceiling.
McHughs, 29-31 Queen's Square, near Albert Clock, Belfast (tel.
028-9024-7830), claims to be Belfast's oldest pub, dating back to 1711, as
well as the city's oldest remaining building. It was recently refurbished
and reopened in 1998, with lots of memorabilia and mementos of the past.
Enjoy traditional music entertainment on most evenings.
River Inn Bar & Cellars, 36 Shipquay St., Derry (tel. 028-7137-1965), is the oldest pub in Derry City, dating back to 1684. It was originally operated as an inn and the bar was named "Gluepot" in honor of a London pub. The walls are lined with a collection of wine bottles and local Derry memorabilia including a map showing the streets of Derry in 1690.
The Linenhall Bar, 3-5 Market St., Derry (tel. 028-7137-1665).
Situated inside the Derry walls, this pub has lots of atmosphere and is a
favored gathering spot for the locals. Sporting events are shown on a big
screen TV and lunch is served.
White's Tavern, 2-4 Winecellar Entry, with access from Lombard St., High St., and Rosemary St. (tel. 028-9024-3080), is one of Belfast's oldest pubs on one of the city's oldest streets. It was established in 1630 as a wine and spirit merchant shop, and then rebuilt as a pub in 1790. Step in, order your favorite beverage, and enjoy the ambiance amid the brick arches, ornate snugs, old barrels, and framed newspaper clippings dating back at least 200 years. It features a range of beers and real ales, supplied by local microbreweries.
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