Armagh & Down

Photos: St. Patrick's Trian, Armagh; St. Patrick's Grave, Downpatrick.

Although all of Ireland is truly the Land of St. Patrick, the Counties of Armagh and Down are usually referred to as "St. Patrick's Country."

Of all the high and mighty spots of Ireland, Patrick chose Armagh as his base to spread the new religion of Christianity, probably c. 445. He began his mission by asking the local chieftain for permission to build a church. By the 8th-century, Armagh was generally accepted as the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland. In 1152 the Synod of Kells bestowed on the archbishop of Armagh the title of "Primate of All Ireland," an epithet carried on today.

Armagh is still the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland, and there are two St. Patrick's Cathedrals — the original site which now belongs to the Church of Ireland (Anglican) and a Catholic edifice, less than a half-mile away.

The city of Armagh offers a number of attractions that help to illuminate the story of St. Patrick. But the story does not end here. From Armagh, it is an easy drive eastward to County Down and an area known as St. Patrick's Vale — a beautiful section of countryside that also embraced St. Patrick. This area is the place where he completed his ministry. St. Patrick was laid to rest in the cemetery of Downpatrick Cathedral in the shadow of the Mountains of Mourne.

Here are a few of the highlights:

St. Patrick's Cathedral (Catholic), Cathedral Road, Armagh (tel. 028-3752-2638), built a little over a century ago (1840-73). Perched high above the rest of the city, this Byzantine-style building has two impressive loft spires and a carillon of 39 bells. The front steps offer panoramic city views. Open daily. Web site: www.armagharchdiocese.org

St. Patrick's Cathedral (Church of Ireland), Cathedral Close, off Abbey Street, Armagh (tel. 028-3752-3142), is the site where St. Patrick build his original church in c. 445. Although little is left of the original structure, highlights include a medieval stairway, an 11th century Celtic cross, and a tablet marking the grave of Brian Boru, last high king of Ireland. Open daily. Web site: www.stpatricks-cathedral.org

St. Patrick's Trian, 40 English St., Armagh (tel. 3752-1801), is a unique three-part heritage centre that answers the questions: Who was St. Patrick? Where did he come from? What did he do? How and why did he make Armagh his headquarters? Start with a walk-through tour of "The Armagh Story," an interpretative area that relates the history of the city even before St. Patrick, in prehistoric and Celtic times. The focus then shifts to Patrick and his life and times in Armagh, followed by the Viking and Georgian eras. From here, you enter an audio-visual theater to see the 20-minute film "Belief," which profiles the many types of beliefs held by humanity. The final segment, a particular favorite with children, is "The Land of Lilliput," a hands-on exploration of Jonathan Swift's world as outlined in his book "Gulliver's Travels" which was partly written in Armagh. The center also includes art galleries, craft shops, and a permanent display on the "Book of Armagh," a Biblical manuscript written in 807 by the Irish scribe Ferdomnach. Open daily except Sunday morning. Web site: www.saintpatrickstrian.com

The Palace Stables, Friary Rd., Armagh (tel 3752-9629), is an attraction that has little to do with St. Patrick, although it does offer insight into Armagh as an ecclesiastical capital. Built by Archbishop Robinson when he came to Armagh in 1765, the palace itself today comprises the offices of the Armagh District Council. The interior of the stables now presents a walk-through tour of life in Armagh in 1776, using "a day in the life" format, with life-like figures in period dress, an audio commentary, and colorful murals. The tour also takes you into the "Primate's Chapel," completed in 1786, one of the finest examples of Georgian neo-classicism in Ireland. Open daily except Sunday mornings. Web site: www.visitarmagh.com

Downpatrick Cathedral on the Hill of Down, Downpatrick (tel. 028-9032-2268), has been a place of Christian prayer and worship since the time of St. Patrick. The placename is derived from the Irish language "Dún Pádraig," meaning "St. Patrick's fort." Successive churches have been built, replaced, and restored on this site, evolving to the present building. In the 12th-century relics of St. Patrick were discovered here, giving rise to the belief that the intrepid saint must have spent a lot of time here, after Armagh. To add credence to the theory, a slab of rock engraved simply with one word, "Pádraig," sits in the cathedral graveyard. Open daily. Web site: www.downanddromore.org

St. Patrick Centre, Downpatrick, Co. Down (tel. 028-4461-9000) invites visitors to cross over a "time bridge" to the 5th century to follow the story of Patrick in his own words, with a little help from state-of-the art sound and visual art technology - including word walls, sculptures, recorded readings from Patrick's own writings, and interactive computer exhibits. The tour ends with an enlightening multi-media presentation on an 180-degree-shaped screen, with voices from past and present analyzing the many aspects of Patrick. Open daily, year-round. Web site: www.saintpatrickcentre.com

Navan Centre & Fort, 81 Killylea Rd., Armagh (tel. 028-3752-1801) is the site of one of Ireland's most important ancient monuments, Navan Fort, the royal seat of Ulster kings and the province's ancient capital. The interpretative centre presents a series of exhibits reflecting the long history of the site. Open on weekends in April-May and Sept. and daily in June-August except closed on July 12. Web site: www.visitarmagh.com

Mount Stewart, Portaferry Rd., Newtownards, Co. Down (tel. 028-4278-8387. If you have a free morning or afternoon and like to walk, this National Trust site has much to offer. Set overlooking Strangford Lough on the Ards Peninsula, it is an 18th century neo-classical house, originally known as Mount Pleasant and surrounded by magnificent gardens, created in the 1920’s, and considered to be the leading plant collection and garden in Northern Ireland. The layout includes topiary and formal gardens (sunken garden, shamrock garden, peace garden, terraces, Italian and Spanish gardens) plus various walks, a rhododendron hill, lily wood and temple of the winds. Note: some paths can be slippery, so wear sturdy shoes; and sharp-heeled shoes are not permitted in the house. Closed: November – February, gardens open at 10 a.m., house opens at noon or 1p.m.; closing times vary with the seasons. Web site: www.nationaltrust.org.uk

The Mountains of Mourne are the legendary mountains east of Armagh that are immortalized in the Percy French song, "Where the Mountains of Mourne Sweep down to the Sea." From Newry, follow the A 2 road for the scenic drive beside the Mourne Mountains, a 25-mile sweep along the coast of Carlingford Lough. To the left, 15 summits rise to over 2,000 feet, providing an ever changing panorama in every mile. This is the start of the area known as St. Patrick's Vale, into Co. Down.

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