Photos: (Center) The focal point of
medieval Kilkenny City is Kilkenny Castle; (Clockwise) the interior of Duiske Abbey;
cobbled laneway and arched doorways of Rothe House; entrance to Smithwick's Brewery; the
village of Inistioge on the River Nore; and view of the River Barrow from the bridge of
Graiguenamanagh.
Here are
the prime sights which can all
be reached in a walking tour:
Kilkenny Castle, The Parade (tel. 056-772-1450), dominates the south end of town — with its turrets and towers, sitting on a high bank overlooking the River Nore. Dating back to 1192, it was built by the Norman leader Strongbow and later acquired by the Butlers, Dukes of Ormonde. The Butler family retained it for over 500 years, and then it was passed to the Irish government as a national monument in 1967. Tour the library, drawing room, bedrooms, and sitting rooms, as well as the rose gardens. The former stables, across the street, now serve as craft workshops and a design centre. Open daily all year. Web site: www.heritageireland.ie
St. Canice's Cathedral, St. Canice's Pl., Coach Rd. (tel. 056-776-4971) is the structure that gave the city its name — St. Canice founded a monastery on this site in the 6th century. The present Gothic-style church was built mostly in the 13th century and has been expanded over the years, making it the second-longest of Ireland's medieval cathedrals, measuring 212 feet in length. The interior has a hammer barn roof that dates back to 1863 and a marble floor composed of the four marbles of Ireland. The grounds include steps that were constructed in 1614, and a massive 100-ft.-high round tower, believed to have survived from Canice's time. Open daily year-round. Web site: www.stcanicescathedral.ie
The Black Abbey, Abbey St. (056-772-1279), was founded in 1225 the Dominican Friary of the Most Holy Trinity. It derives its current name from the Dominicans wearing a black cappa over their white habit. The abbey had a long and anguished history — suppressed and confiscated by Henry VIII, later becoming a courthouse and then a roofless ruin. In 1816, the local people revived it as a place of worship and began to restore it, a project that was finally completed in 1979. Among its treasures are 13th century stone coffins and a pre-Reformation Irish oak statue of St. Dominic, believed to be the oldest in the world. Open daily year-round. Web site: www.dominicanfriars.ie/locations/ireland/kilkenny
Rothe House, Parliament St. (tel 056-772-2893), is one of Kilkenny's oldest houses and now a museum. Built by local merchant John Rothe in 1594, it is a fine example of a local Tudor-style middle class home. It is actually three restored buildings, joined by cobbled courtyards. Tours take you into the reception room, common kitchen, bakery, and brewhouse. Open daily year-round.
Smithwick's Brewery, Parliament St. (tel. 056-772-1014), is Kilkenny's own brewery, founded on this site in 1710 by John Smithwick, incorporating part of a 13th century abbey in its façade. The brewery makes Budweiser for the Irish market as well as the original Smithwick's brand of ale. It is open for tours on weekdays at 3 p.m., May-September. (Note: Tours are being phased out, since this brewery facility, owned by Guinness/Diageo will be closing in 2009 or 2010, so call in advance to check on availability of tours).
In addition, the countryside of County Kilkenny holds many aesthetic delights such as the picturesque riverside villages of Inistioge, Graiguenamanagh, and Bennettsbridge. At Callan, you will find the birthplace of Bro. Edmund Ignatius Rice, recently beatified and on his way to sainthood. Here are some of the highlights:
Duiske Abbey, Lr. Main Street, Graiguenamanagh (059-972-4238), is a fine example of the style of architecture known as "early English" as well as being the largest of the Irish Cistercian monastery churches (with a nave over 200 feet long). Founded in 1204, it became a hub of ecclesiastic and scholastic activity in the Middle Ages, only to be suppressed in 1536 and eventually fall into ruin. It was fully restored in the 1970s by the local community. Treasures surviving from the 13th century include part of the original tiled floor and stone carvings on windows, doorways, and arches, as well as rugged stone-faced walls lime-washed in the original manner. Open daily year-round.
Jerpoint Abbey, Jerpoint, Thomastow (tel. 056-772-4623), founded as a Cistercian monastery in 1160 and in ruins today, was once a thriving town, with infirmary, granary, stables, watermills, gardens, and various houses and buildings. Surviving highlights include original 12th century Romanesque pillars, a mediecal chancel, a 14th century window with elaborate tracery, and one of the most decorative cloister arcades of any Irish church. Open mid-April to mid-October; hours vary. Web site: www.heritageireland.ie
The Rice House, Westcourt, Callan (tel. 056-772-5339), is the birthplace of the recently beatified Edmund Ignatius Rice (1762-1844), founder of the Irish Christian Brothers. A fine example of a 18th century "strong farmer's house," this thatched-roof cottage has been restored by members of the order and furnished with many possessions of Bro. Rice as well as implements and artifacts of his day. Open daily year-round. Web site: www.iol.ie/~aidancbs/rice/rice.htm
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